Why Zoagli and not Portofino?
When people think of the Ligurian coast, Portofino and Cinque Terre come to mind first. Both are beautiful, no question. But if you look for parking in summer, want dinner without a reservation or simply want to sit on the beach in peace, you’ll be disappointed. Zoagli is the relaxed alternative. A town of just 2,400 people tucked between Rapallo and Chiavari on the Gulf of Tigullio, it has kept its character precisely because it never became a major tourist hotspot.
The municipality includes the small coastal village and several hamlets above it: Sant’Ambrogio, San Pantaleo, Semorile and San Pietro di Rovereto. They are connected by a network of old mule paths and stairways called creuze, running through olive groves and chestnut forests. Down by the sea there is a small piazza with cafés, a pebble beach under a dramatic railway viaduct, and a cliffside promenade that is hard to beat at sunset.
Beach and sea
Zoagli’s main beach sits right below the railway viaduct. It is a typical Ligurian pebble beach: small, clean and with clear water. The true highlight is the Passeggiata, a footpath built directly over the rocks along the sea, with several access points for swimming. For more privacy, you can find quiet sunbathing spots on the rocks east of the promenade.
Nearby there are more options. Rapallo’s beaches are five minutes by car, and the hidden bay of San Fruttuoso, reachable only by boat or on foot, is one of the most spectacular swimming spots in all of Liguria.
Food and drink
Zoagli has only a handful of restaurants, but they focus on quality rather than quantity. Menus are often only in Italian, which is a good sign. Fresh fish, focaccia di Recco, pesto alla Genovese and trofie are the regional classics. On the piazza you’ll find cafés where you can drink an espresso with sea views in the morning, and in the evening tables are set outside.
For a bigger restaurant scene, take the short trip to Rapallo or Chiavari. Both towns have a lively food culture. In Chiavari there is a large Friday market with plenty of local specialties.
Zoagli has been famous for silk weaving for centuries. The Seterie di Zoagli on Via dei Velluti is one of the last traditional silk manufacturers in Italy. Its velvet fabrics were once supplied to European royal courts. A visit is highly recommended.
Sights and culture
The most striking sight is the Castello di Sem Benelli, a neo‑Gothic private castle perched on a cliff above the sea. The poet and playwright Sem Benelli built it in the early 20th century and hosted guests such as Nietzsche, Ezra Pound and Kandinsky. The castle is not open to the public, but the view from the promenade or hiking trails is impressive.
The five churches of the hamlets—especially Sant’Ambrogio with its gulf panorama and Romanesque San Pantaleo from the 12th century—are part of the Sentiero dei Cinque Campanili, a loop hike linking them all. On the coastal footpath, a plaque commemorates musician Greg Lake of King Crimson and Emerson, Lake & Palmer, who lived here for years and became an honorary citizen.
Who is Zoagli for?
Zoagli is perfect for anyone who wants to experience Italy as it really is: without crowds, without inflated prices, but with great food, dramatic nature and real local culture. The connections are still excellent. Portofino is 12 km away, Cinque Terre is 45 minutes by train, and Genoa with its aquarium and old town is 40 minutes away. Active travelers find hiking, coastal bike paths and diving spots right outside the door. Those who simply want calm can sit on the terrace and watch the sea.
FAQ: Zoagli as a hidden gem in Liguria
Zoagli is quieter and more authentic than many hotspots, yet still central between Rapallo, Chiavari and Portofino.
Rapallo is only minutes away, and Portofino is usually around 20 to 30 minutes depending on traffic.
Yes, especially in hillside areas such as Sant'Ambrogio with more greenery and wide sea views.
Zoagli suits couples, families and workation guests looking for an authentic base on the Riviera di Levante.